with a thick layer of ashy-grey
powder.

About nine o'clock we reached Zand River, where we found some good
water, and stayed till dusk. We exchanged some mealies against salt
and other necessaries with some kaffirs who were living near by the
water. Their diminutive, deformed stature was another proof of the
miserable climate obtaining there.

There was much big game here; wild beasts, "hartebeest," "rooiboks"
(sometimes in groups of from five to twenty at a time), and at night
we heard the roaring of lions and the howling of wolves. Even by day
lions were encountered. Now, one of the weakest points, perhaps the
weakest, of an Afrikander is his being unable to refrain from shooting
when he sees game, whether such be prohibited or not. From every
commando burghers had been sent out to do shooting for our
commissariat, but a good many had slipped away, so that hundreds of
them were soon hunting about in the thickly-grown woods. The
consequence was that, whenever a group of them discovered game, it
seemed as if a real battle were going on, several persons often being
wounded, and many cattle killed. We made rules and regulations, and
even inflicted punishments which did some good, but could not check
the wild hunting instincts altogether, it being difficult to find out
in the dark bush who had been the culprits.

Meanwhile the trek went on very slowly. On the seventh day we reached
Blyde River, where we had one of the loveliest views of the whole
"boschveldt." The river, which has its source near Pilgrim's Rest and
runs into the great Olifant's River near the Lomboba, owes its name to
trekker pioneers, who, being out hunting in the good old times, had
been looking for water for days, and when nearly perishing from
thirst, had suddenly discovered this river, and called it Blyde (or
"Glad") River. The stream at the spot we crossed is about 40 feet
wide, and the water as pure as crystal. The even bed is covered with
white gravel, and along both banks are splendid high trees. The whole
laager could outspan under their shade, and it was a delightful,
refreshing sensation to find oneself protected from the burning sun.
We all drank of the delicious water, which we had seldom found in such
abundance, and we also availed ourselves of it to bathe and wash our
clothes.

In the afternoon a burgher, whose name I had better not mention, came
running up to us with his clothes torn to tatters, and his hat and gun
gone. He presente