her under
the projecting balconies, while Filipinos shuffle peacefully along
the curb.

The new American saloons look rather out of place in such a curious
environment, and telegraph wires concentrated at the city wall seem
even more incongruous.

Chapter II.

All About the Town.

The wide streets radiating from the Bridge of Spain are lined with
lemonade stands, where the cube of ice is sheltered from the sun by
striped awnings. Leaving the walled town on the river side--the gate
has been destroyed by earthquakes--you can take the ferry over to
the Tondo side. The ferryboat is a round-bottomed, wobbly sampan,
with a tiny cabin in the stern. You crouch down, waiting for the
boat to roll completely over, which at first it seems inclined to do,
or try to plan some method of escape in case the pilot gets in front
of one of the swift-moving tugs. You have good reason to congratulate
yourself on being landed at a stone-quay in a tangle of small launches,
ferryboats, and _cascoes_. The Tondo Canal may be crossed on a covered
barge, poled by an ancient boatman, who collects the fares--a copper
cent of Borneo, Straits Settlements, or Hong Kong coinage--much in
the same way as the pilot of the Styx collects the obolus.

Under the long porch of the customs-house, a dummy engine noisily
plies up and down among the long-horned carabaos and piles
of merchandise. Types of all nations are encountered here. The
immigration office swarms with Chinamen herded together, rounded
up by some contractor. Every Chinaman must have his photograph, his
number, and description in the immigration officer's possession. Indian
merchants, agents of the German, Spanish, and English business firms
are looking after new invoices. A party of American tourists, just
arrived from China, are awaiting the inspection of their baggage.

The Bridge of Spain, that famous artery of commerce, over which a
stream of carabao-carts, crowded tram-cars, pleasure vehicles, and
army wagons flows continuously, spans the Pasig River at the head of
the Escolta in Binondo. Here the bazaars and European business houses
are located, while the avenues that branch off lead to other populous
and swarming districts. _La Extramena_, a grocery and wine-store;
_La Estrella del Norte_--"The North Star"--diamond and jewelry-store;
the _Sombreria_, hatstore, advertised by a huge wooden hat hung out
above the street; and a tobacco booth, are situated on the corners
wher