re not as boist'rous as they were the day
before."

It was the rhythm of the sea, the good ship rising on the waves,
the cats'-paws flying into gusts of spray before the driving wind.

I was awakened at four bells by the disturbance of the sailors swabbing
down the deck--an exhibition performance, as the general condition
of the ship led me to think. Breakfast was served down in the forward
cabin, where, with deep-sea appetites, we eagerly attacked a tiny cup
of chocolate, very sweet and thick, a glass of coffee thinned with
condensed milk, crackers, and ladyfingers. That was all. Some of our
fellow-passengers had been there early, as the dirty table-cloth and
dishes testified. A Filipino woman at the further end was engaged in
dressing a baby, while the provincial treasurer, in his pink pajamas,
tried to shave before the dingy looking-glass. An Indian merchant,
a Visayan belle with dirty finger-nails and ankles, and a Filipino
justice of the peace still occupied the table. Reaching a vacant
place over the piles of rolled-up sleeping mats and camphorwood
boxes--the inevitable baggage of the Filipino--I swept off the crumbs
upon the floor, and, after much persuasion, finally secured a glass
of lukewarm coffee and some broken cakes. The heavy-eyed _muchacho_,
who, with such reluctance waited on the table, had the grimiest feet
that I had ever seen.

A second meal was served at ten o'clock, for which the tables were
spread on deck. The plates were stacked up like Chinese pagodas, and
counting them, you could determine accurately the number of courses
on the bill of fare. There were about a dozen courses of fresh meat
and chicken--or the same thing cooked in different styles. Garlic
and peppers were used liberally in the cooking. Heaps of boiled rice,
olives, and sausage that defied the teeth, wrapped up in tinfoil, "took
the taste out of your mouth." Bananas, mangoes, cheese, and guava-jelly
constituted the dessert. After the last plate had been removed, the
grizzled captain at the head of the table lighted a coarse cigarette,
which, in accordance with the Spanish custom, he then passed to the
mate, so that the mate could light his cigarette. This is a more polite
way than to make an offer of a match. Coffee and cognac was brought
on after a considerable interval. Although this process was repeated
course for course at eight o'clock, during the interim you found it
was best to bribe the steward and eat an extra me