r there had been heavy rains, the mule
was lazy, and I was unaccustomed to this kind of travelling; besides, I
found much on the route to excite my attention; much which was novel and
highly interesting. My progress was consequently slow. The road passed
among the sugar plantations, which were confined to the comparatively
low lands near the sea shore; then ascending towards the mountains,
winded through coffee and cacao estates, the successful cultivation of
which articles of commerce requires a cooler and moister region than the
sugar-cane.

During this journey, I often stopped my mule on the summit of a
commanding height, and gazed admiringly around on the beautiful and
extensive prospect. The well-cultivated plantations, each appearing
like a village in itself, scattered among the many hills and valleys
and intervals even to the very sea coast; the sea beyond, which at that
distance seemed as smooth and polished as a mirror, encasing the island
in a frame of silver; the luxuriant tropical foliage, whose beauty I had
often heard described; the cocoanut, orange, tamarind, and guava trees,
loaded with fruit, with plantains, bananas, pineapples, aloes and
cactuses on every side, all filled my heart with wonder and delight.

Taking the road leading over the mountains, which is impassable for
carriages, I passed through vast tracks of forest, where the lofty trees
were covered with stout vines reaching to the tree tops, rendering it
difficult for man to penetrate those sylvan recesses. Near the highest
part of this mountain road, at a height of several thousand feet above
the sea, is situated a romantic lake, called by the French the Grand
Etang, or Great Lake, which fills the crater of an extinct volcano.
Near this spot, where the atmosphere is always cool and humid, we were
suddenly enveloped in a cloud, and soon experienced the peltings of a
tropical shower. I received conclusive evidence that my garments were
not water-proof before we could find shelter in a negro hut by the
wayside.

After passing the Grand Etang, we began to descend the mountains on our
way towards the north side of the island. The sun again shone brightly,
and again a beautiful and expanded prospect met my view. To the eastward
was the little town of Greenville, situated at the head of a beautiful
bay, in which several ships and quite a number of small vessels were
riding at anchor. Far to the north was seen the high and rugged island
of St. Vin