is the great seaport that was Alexandria? Where are the ships that
plied their trade to the four corners of the earth, built, outfitted,
loaded from this port, officered and manned by the men of this town?
Where the great shipyards down whose ways slipped vessels of any
magnitude; the ropewalks where black slaves trod the weary miles
twisting the hemp to lift the sails made in Alexandria sail lofts? Where
the great docks, wharves and warehouses that lined the water front?

Only phantom vessels, locked in the eternal secrets of the deep, float
at anchor and crowd the harbor with a pale tracery of masts and rigging.
Only the voices of sailors long silent float ashore on the breezes in a
polyglot of languages, while ghostly laughter and oaths of those held in
taverns by rum and sugar at three pence ha'penny disturbs the sobriety
of the water front.

Gone are the shipyards. Upon ways destroyed by rot will rise no more the
skeleton ribs of sloop nor barque nor brig.

Silent are the sail lofts. Long ago the last workman at day's end put
down the canvas and the thread.

Empty are the ropewalks of docile slave and pungent hemp.

Cold are the bake ovens--crumbled the last biscuit....

The worn and polished cobbles are destitute of coach and four, of
chariot and chair. Nor does the mail arrive by stage.

No more will hoops and wigs add allure to the progress of beauty--nor
peruke nor smallclothes invest the beau with grandeur.

The factor and the sea captains have departed. The weary clerk has put
up the last shutter; empty stools and blunted quills abandoned. Only the
ledgers remain, free of blot and blemish to attest the skill and
patience of the forgotten scribe.

An autumn moon lights the old town, turning to silver the tiny waves
lapping the old sea wall, shimmering on the panes of dormer windows,
silhouetting the high brick facades against the white night, outlining
trim and cornice. Lighted transoms dimly reveal the white paneled
doorways.... Let us enter....

[Illustration]

PART TWO

The Presence of George Washington 1749-1799

[Illustration]

Chapter 1

William Ramsay: Romulus of Alexandria

[Historic Ramsay House, once the home of Alexandria's first mayor and
oldest building standing in the city, miraculously escaped destruction
by fire in 1942. Later threatened by the "wheels of progress," it was
saved by heroic efforts of Alexandria antiquarians who persuaded the
city fathers to purch