at every successive course, and there is no fear of
eating off the dirty plate of one's neighbour, or using his knife or
fork, the sideboard being laden with piles of plates and conveniences
of every description. After fish, which always constitutes the first
course, the host invites one of his guests to drink a glass of wine
with him, desiring him to help himself to that which he likes best.
You take that which is offered you. Your host then pours out a glass
for himself, and sends you the bottle by a servant. You fill your
glass, you raise it to your lips with a half bow, and drink as much
of it as you feel inclined. The same ceremony is repeated among the
other guests. It should be mentioned that, if you ask a lady to take
wine, you always fill her glass before your own; but, if you invite a
gentleman so to do, you never fail to help yourself first. This
custom was, formerly, very inconvenient to strangers, it being, then,
absolutely necessary to empty one's glass; at present, you need only
drink a portion, and ladies may satisfy the rules of etiquette by
merely moistening their lips. After fish, come roast meats, boiled
vegetables, and various delicate sauces, with which you make your
_cuisine_ upon your own plate; puddings and game of all sorts follow,
amongst which there is, always, to begin with, one dish, especially
appropriate to the season. It is to the former article of diet
(puddings), that English children are indebted, it is said, for their
excellent health, and their magnificent rosy complexions. The cloth
is at length removed, and the mahogany table shines forth in all its
splendour. Dessert follows, consisting of a few sweetmeats, or
_confitures_, but abounding in fruits from all five parts of the
world, and the produce of all the four seasons, and including superb
pineapples, Portugal grapes, almonds, red nuts of a delicious
flavour, dates, figs, rich juicy oranges, etc., etc. The wine is
brought on in glass decanters, ticketed and placed in silver stands.
These stands glide along the shining table, which is as smooth as
ice, in the midst of silver, or crystal vases filled with fruit, etc.
The host, after helping himself to wine, pushes about the whole
'battery' of decanters, which, going the round of the table, soon
regain their original situation. A quarter