ice is from forty to sixty pounds. This makes her what is
known as an "indoor apprentice," and entitles her to board and lodgings
for two years. Numbers are taken at once, beds are set close together in
the rooms provided, and board is made of the cheapest, to prevent loss.
This would seem very small, but add to it the fact, that the apprentice
gives from twelve to sixteen hours a day of time and a year of time as
assistant after the first probation is past, and it will be seen, that,
even with no fee, the house is hardly likely to lose much.
The out-door apprentices pay usually ten pounds and board and lodge at
home, but hours are the same; never less than twelve, and in the busy
season, fourteen and sixteen. Tea is furnished them once a day, but no
food, nor is there definite time for meals. In the case of in-door
apprentices, with any rush of work, a supper is provided at ten, but the
"out-doors" must bring such food as is needed. For them there is, as for
learners, no pay for over-time; and the strain often costs the life of
the country girls unused to confinement, who fall into quick
consumption, induced not only by long hours of sitting bent over work,
but by breathing air foul with the vile gas and want of ventilation, as
well as, in many cases, the worst possible sanitary conditions. If the
initiatory period is safely past, the apprentice becomes an "improver;"
that is, she is allowed larger choice of work, looks on or even tries
her own hand when draping is to be done, and if quick is shortly ranked
as an assistant. With this stage comes a small wage. An out-door
apprentice now earns from four to five shillings ($1.25) a week. The
in-door one still receives only board, but soon graduates from second
to first assistant, though the whole process requires not less than four
years and is often made to cover six. As first assistant she is likely
to have quarters slightly more comfortable than those of the
apprentices, and she receives one pound a week,--often less, but never
more. In case of over-time, this meaning anything over the twelve hours
which is regarded as a day's work, various rates are paid. In the
mourning department of one of the best known Oxford Street
establishments, fourpence an hour is allowed. This rate is exceptionally
high, being given because of the objection to evening work on black. The
same house pays in the colored-suit department two and a half pence
(5c.) an hour, and provides tea for th
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