hinese, as
in the use of horse-beef. I have been in a provision store in Paris
where nothing else was sold; and every part of the animal was
economized, including the liver, kidneys, and tongue, and sausages of
this meat were on view and for sale to epicures in this flesh. But I
believe the Chinese do not eat the horse, unless it be in a season of
famine; and they had to eat cats in Paris during the siege of 1870.
"When you go into the markets you may see whole dogs dressed for food,
or cut up into pieces ready for cooking. These are not common yellow
dogs, such as you saw in the capital of the Turkish empire; but they are
the peculiar Chinese breed, sleek and hairless, which are carefully
fatted, and prepared for market. I have no doubt that your stomachs
revolt at the very idea of eating dog; but I cannot see that it is any
worse than eating pork and fowls, which feed more or less on animal
food. However, I do not hanker after dog-meat.
"The Buddhist religion prevails to a great extent here, which diminishes
the quantity of beef used, though not so much as the kindly feeling
towards the creature that is so useful in tilling the soil. Pork is the
most common in use for meat, and the number of pigs raised is enormous.
Geese and ducks are abundant, artificially hatched as in ancient Egypt,
and to a considerable extent in America, and are largely used for food.
"The sea, rivers, and lakes supply fish in all needed quantities. They
are taken in nets, and also by a novel method of fishing with which you
cannot be familiar. A boat goes out with a number of cormorants trained
for the purpose, which are fishers by nature. The birds dive and bring
up the fish, which they deposit in the hand-nets of the boatman.
"Dr. Legge says the Chinese are not gross feeders, as generally
represented, except the very poor, and that a Chinese dinner of
twenty-seven courses 'may hold its own with the most luxurious tables.'
He adds that the famous bird's-nest soup is a misnomer; but he admits
that nests from the Indian Archipelago are sliced into other soups, in
his opinion without improving the flavor.
"For a drink, tea has superseded every other beverage, and is taken
without sugar or milk. It was not used at all in ancient times, but its
use is universal at the present time. The plant is not grown in the
north. Black tea comes from the central provinces, and green from two
eastern mainly. Next to silk, if not equal to it, tea is the
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