ut twelve miles up the
river to the town; and, as you can see, the country is low and flat. The
city has 250,000 inhabitants, and is the principal central port of China
for foreign trade."
The channel of the river was crowded with junks, and there are sometimes
as many as three thousand of them between the town and the sea; but they
were careful to keep out of the track of steamers, even though they had
the right of way. The two steamers picked their way through the native
boats, and they were at anchor off the city in season for the late
breakfast ordered.
"Shang-hai stands on low ground; and cholera, dysentery, and fevers
prevail here in summer," said the commander when they were all seated at
the table. "The English, French, and American quarters are in the suburb
north of the native city, and they have broad and clean streets; but in
the city proper, they are narrow and filthy, not unlike those of Canton.
It is enclosed by a wall five miles in extent. What else there is here
you can see for yourselves."
The captain decided, after the pacha came on board in his barge with
the rest of his party, to lunch and dine at the Astor House, perhaps
because the name sounded like home; but he found that the hotel "was a
horse of another color." They went on shore in some of the native boats
that crowded around the ship; and their first care was to secure six
guides, all that offered their services on the quay. The next was to
procure a supply of the money current in the city, which was
accomplished with the aid of the principal guide, all of whom were
English, who could speak Chinese and pidgin.
The company were then divided into six parties, who had suggested this
plan when they found that this number of guides could be obtained. The
"Big Four" went together, and the rest of the company were in parties of
three. The conveyances were found to be small, low broughams, pony gigs,
palanquins, jinrickishas, and wheelbarrows, the last such as the party
had seen in Cholan. The boys decided to walk first, and try the vehicles
later. They went into a shop where Louis saw something in a window he
wanted, and the guide asked the price for him. The dealer refused to
show the article, or to name a price, unless Louis would agree to buy if
he did so.
They were not like the Hong-Kong salesmen; for there were several of
them, and they were impolite enough to make fun of the tourists. Scott
doubled his fists, and was inclined to pit
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