as an _assiette_ or a _poele a frire_. There was the
burner of alcohol; there was "_le couvercle de celui-ci_," which
served equally to measure the spirit, and there was a charming
_appareil brise vent_ which had the air of defying tornadoes. When I
had secured this treasure, Molly drew my attention to a series of
aluminium boxes made to fit eggs and sandwiches. I bought these also,
and, pleased with the clean white metal, invested in plates, goblets,
and water bottles of the same. Next came a _couvert pliant_,
containing knife, fork, and spoon; and, lest I should be guilty of
selfishness, I ordered a duplicate for the man who would look after
the mule. Best of all, however, were the tinned soups, meats,
vegetables, puddings, and cocoas, which you simply set on the fire in
their bright little cans, and heated till they sent forth a steamy
fragrance. Then you ate or drank them, and were happy as a king.

Molly and I selected a number of these, and completed the list with a
sleeping bag and a _tente de touriste_, which she persuaded me would
be indispensable when lost in the mountains, as I was sure to be,
often.

When my goods and chattels came to be collected, we were shocked to
find that the mule-pack would not contain them. The question remained,
then, whether I should sacrifice these new possessions, already dear,
or whether I should doom my mule to carry a greater burden. The
attendant intimated that Swiss mules preferred heavy loads, and had
they the vocal gifts of Balaam's ass, would demand them. Swayed by my
desires and his arguments, I changed my pack for a larger one. After
more than an hour in the shop, we tore ourselves away, leaving word
that the things should be sent by post to Lucerne. We then repaired to
the Bear Pit, by way of the Clock, and having supplied ourselves with
plenty of carrots, had no cause to complain of our reception.

[Illustration]

CHAPTER V

In Search of a Mule

"Yes, we await it, but it still delays, and then we suffer."
--MATTHEW ARNOLD.

"When I arose and saw the dawn, I sighed for thee . . .
Come, long-sought!"
--PERCY BYSSHE SHELLEY.

Jack no longer attempted to dissuade me from my walking tour. Whether
Molly had talked to him, or whether he had, unprompted, seen the error
of his ways, I cannot tell, but the fact remains that, during the rest
of our run to L