il the
following morning, and we concluded that the rest would do us good. He
loaded us up with watermelons, and with raisins, which he was curing
at that time. We spent a pleasant afternoon under a shaded arbour,
listening to his reminiscences, and munching at the raisins.

That evening Loper told us his story of their canyon expedition. He
felt a little bitter about some newspaper reports that had been
published concerning this expedition, these reports giving the
impression that his nerve had failed him, and that for this reason he
had not continued on the journey. We mollified his feelings somewhat,
when we told him that his companions were not responsible for these
reports; but rather, that short telegraphic reports, sent out from the
Grand Canyon, had been misconstrued by the papers; and that this
accounted for the stories which had appeared. His companions had
remained at the Grand Canyon for two days following their arrival at
Bright Angel Trail. They gave Loper credit, to our certain knowledge,
of being the only one of the party who knew how to handle the boats in
rough water when they began the trip, and had stated that he ran all
the boats through certain rapids until they caught the knack. They
could not know of his reasons for the delay, and at that time had no
knowledge of his arrival at Lee's Ferry, after they had gone.
Naturally they were very much puzzled over his non-appearance.

It got quite cold that night, and we were glad to have shelter of
Hite's hospitable roof. In our trip down the river to this point we
had seemed to keep even with the first cold weather. In all places
where it was open, we would usually find a little ice accompanied by
frost in the mornings, or if no ice had frozen the grass would be wet
with dew. In the canyons there was little or no ice, and the air was
quite dry. Naturally we preferred the canyons if we had a choice of
camps.

Loper looked as though he would like to accompany us as we pulled away
the next morning, after having landed him on the south side of the
stream. We, at least, had full confidence in his nerve to tackle the
lower Colorado, after his record in Cataract Canyon. The five
scattered peaks of the Henry Mountains were now to the north-northwest
of us, rugged and snow-capped, supreme in their majesty above this
desolate region.

Signs of an ancient Indian race were plentiful in this section. There
were several small cliff dwellings, walled up in ledges i