e; and the folk,
especially women, wear delicate strawen hats with flowers and leaves
fairly imitated in silk, with silver mixed. This day we crossed a river
prettily in a chained ferry-boat. On either bank was a windlass, and a
single man by turning of it drew our whole company to his shore, whereat
I did admire, being a stranger. Passed over with us some country folk.
And an old woman looking at a young wench, she did hide her face with
her hand, and held her crucifix out like knight his sword in tourney
dreading the evil eye.

"January 25.--Safe at Venice. A place whose strange and passing beauty
is well known to thee by report of our mariners. Dost mind too how Peter
would oft fill our ears withal, we handed beneath the table, and he
still discoursing of this sea-enthroned and peerless city, in shape a
bow, and its great canal and palaces on piles, and its watery ways plied
by scores of gilded boats; and that market-place of nations, orbis,
non urbis, forum, St. Mark, his place? And his statue with the peerless
jewels in his eyes, and the lion at his gate? But I, lying at my window
in pain, may see none of these beauties as yet, but only a street,
fairly paved, which is dull, and houses with oiled paper and linen,
in lieu of glass, which is rude; and the passers-by, their habits and
their gestures, wherein they are superfluous. Therefore, not to miss my
daily comfort of whispering to thee, I will e'en turn mine eyes inward,
and bind my sheaves of wisdom reaped by travel. For I love thee so, that
no treasure pleases me not shared with thee; and what treasure so good
and enduring as knowledge? This then have I, Sir Footsore, learned, that
each nation hath its proper wisdom, and its proper folly; and methinks,
could a great king, or duke, tramp like me, and see with his own eyes,
he might pick the flowers, and eschew the weeds of nations, and go home
and set his own folk on Wisdom's hill. The Germans in the north were
churlish, but frank and honest; in the south, kindly and honest too.
Their general blot is drunkenness, the which they carry even to mislike
and contempt of sober men. They say commonly, 'Kanstu niecht sauffen und
fressen so kanstu kienem hern wol dienen.' In England, the vulgar sort
drink as deep, but the worshipful hold excess in this a reproach, and
drink a health or two for courtesy, not gluttony, and still sugar the
wine. In their cups the Germans use little mirth or discourse, but ply
the business s