glazed, and the glass so
clean and burnished as 'tis most resplendent and rare; and I, now first
seeing a great city, did crow with delight, and like cock on his ladder,
and at the tower foot was taken into custody for a spy; for whilst I
watched the city the watchman had watched me. The burgomaster received
me courteously and heard my story; then rebuked he the officers. 'Could
ye not question him yourselves, or read in his face? This is to make our
city stink in strangers' report.' Then he told me my curiosity was of a
commendable sort; and seeing I was a craftsman and inquisitive, bade
his clerk take me among the guilds. God bless the city where the very
burgomaster is cut of Soloman's cloth!

"January 5.--Dear Margaret, it is a noble city, and a kind mother to
arts. Here they cut in wood and ivory, that 'tis like spider's work, and
paint on glass, and sing angelical harmonies. Writing of books is quite
gone by; here be six printers. Yet was I offered a bountiful wage to
write fairly a merchant's accounts, one Fugger, a grand and wealthy
trader, and hath store of ships, yet his father was but a poor weaver.
But here in commerce, her very garden, men swell like mushrooms. And he
bought my horse of me, and abated me not a jot, which way of dealing is
not known in Holland. But oh, Margaret, the workmen of all the guilds
are so kind and brotherly to one another, and to me. Here, methinks,
I have found the true German mind, loyal, frank, and kindly, somewhat
choleric withal, but nought revengeful. Each mechanic wears a sword. The
very weavers at the loom sit girded with their weapons, and all Germans
on too slight occasion draw them and fight; but no treachery: challenge
first, then draw, and with the edge only, mostly the face, not with Sir
Point; for if in these combats one thrust at his adversary and hurt him,
'tis called ein schelemstucke, a heinous act, both men and women turn
their backs on him; and even the judges punish thrusts bitterly, but
pass over cuts. Hence in Germany be good store of scarred faces, three
in five at least, and in France scarce more than one in three.

"But in arts mechanical no citizens may compare with these. Fountains
in every street that play to heaven, and in the gardens seeming trees,
which being approached, one standing afar touches a spring, and
every twig shoots water, and souses the guests to their host's much
delectation. Big culverins of war they cast with no more ado than our
f