k; further to the
left the base of the Aiguille a Pichner, the upper of the two little
specks we had noticed at Chamonix and from the Brevent. Time passed
rapidly; what with sketching, discussing the prospects of a successful
ascent (concerning which our fellows had not the slightest misgiving,
although we had two guides less than the regulation number), perusing
the traveller's book, looking at the scenery, and basking in the sun, we
had a most delightful time of it. At five we sat down to a plain dinner,
although it consisted of several courses; and having indulged in our
usual smoke, we lay down to rest during the few hours which remained
before our re-commencing the ascent. Although it was rather early for
sleep we might have done something in that direction had not our
attempts been rudely interfered with. When we lay down all was still as
death, and remained so for a time; then there was a terrific noise of
stones rattling against the wooden walls of the hut. The cause of all
this was that an addition to the building is about to be made, and the
levelling of the rock for its reception is done by the men who bring up
the materials from Pierre Pointue, and the only time they give to it is
before retiring at night. What muscles these fellows must have! They had
crossed the Glacier _twice_ that day with heavy loads of wood on their
backs, and not contented they must needs set to work at sunset to the
discomfort of those who, like good children, had gone to bed at an early
hour. At length this diabolical noise ceased, and we again courted
sleep, and were on the verge of attaining it when voices were heard
outside followed by a thundering kick at the door, which was opened by
the inconsiderate fellow who had bestowed it, and who, on perceiving
that the beds were occupied, uttered a "Pardon, Messieurs," and slamming
it disappeared. But this was not the last of him and his friend, who,
occupying the next room to ours, made as much noise as if they were
doing it by contract. The partition being thin I heard nearly every word
they said, and was somewhat amused and very disgusted at the following
dialogue which was carried on in French between one of the tourists and
a guide.
[Illustration: Aiguille a Pichner. Dome du Goute.
"CABANE" ON THE GRANDS MULETS.]
"What are the regulations as to the payment of your expenses here?"
"There are no regulations, sir; you are not obliged to pay for us; but
as a fact we have never
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