bered up the rocks, at
1.30 we entered the little hut.

Prior to Albert Smith's ascent there was no refuge of any kind in this
wild and exposed situation. But as the number of excursionists spending
a night on the rocks to see the glories of sunset and sunrise was on the
increase, a rude hut fourteen feet long by seven wide was erected by the
guides in 1854. The walls were formed of flat blocks and splinters of
the rock, and the roof was of boards.

The existing "Cabane" is somewhat larger. It is divided into three
compartments, two of which are furnished with a couple of beds covered
with coarse rugs, a deal table and two stools. The other room is fitted
with a small cooking-stove, and is used by the man and woman in charge,
and by passing guides and porters. On the north side there is a narrow
walk about a yard in width protected by a hand-rail, and on the west a
short sloping path leading to the snow. Hence it is plain that the life
of those who dwell on this barren rock during the season is not unlike
that of lighthouse keepers. True it is that they may stretch their legs
on the snow, but the only out of door exercise they can take in comfort
is the narrow walk, some forty or fifty feet in length, referred to.
Supplies are as a matter of course brought to this isolated place with
difficulty and at considerable expense, consequently the prices charged,
though high, are not exorbitant, more especially as the proprietor pays
a large sum to the Commune for his license. Luncheon was just over when
a foreigner, accompanied by two guides and a porter, joined us in the
hut. He was on his way back to Chamonix, having successfully made the
ascent. There was an air of joy in his countenance, and satisfaction in
his every movement, and we fondly hoped to be in the same happy frame of
mind at the expiration of twenty-four hours or so. Having rested for a
while, he with his party quitted the "Cabane," and, roped together,
crept down the rocks. Just as they reached the snow I shouted to the
guide, "Will you have the kindness to tell them at the hotel
d'Angleterre that we mean to go to the top?" "Very well, sir, I shall
not forget." Then leaning over the post and rail-fence, we watched them
going down the slopes till they disappeared from view among the
"seracs."

_CHAPTER III._

"The world is all before me; I but ask
Of Nature that with which she will comply--
It is but with her summer's sun to bask,
To