mere
pleasure of that kind of life, we would choose the season when the flies
are supposed to have disappeared; but if we had any special object in
view, such as the ascent of some particular mountain, or the sight of
any remarkable natural feature of the land, we would not suffer
ourselves, at any season, to be deterred by fear of the flies. Certain
districts and certain conditions of atmosphere are doubtless especially
favorable to their development, but the refuge, a thick smudge, is
always at hand, or, if that be objected to, the traveller can try the
recipe of an old hunter at the Adirondac Iron Works (where the creatures
are said to be particularly rampant), namely, a coating of grease mixed
with essence of penny-royal. We fear we would prefer the results of a
vigorous attack to the use of this latter safeguard; but no one knows
what he may do until he is well tried.

A short distance above the 'basin' we came to a final halt, in a
splendid spruce forest, and near a little stream, that necessary
accompaniment of a camping ground. It was feared lest the season was so
far advanced that the spruce bark would no longer peel; but our tall
young aspirant speedily tested the question by a few vigorous,
well-directed strokes of his axe, and soon a great circle of bark, six
feet high and nine feet in breadth, stood ready for use. Five other
pieces, rather less in size, were found sufficient to furnish the sides
and roof of our hut, which was made by cutting down two stout young
saplings to supply the crotched stakes for the triangular front, and a
third, to serve as ridge pole, extending back into the gently sloping
bank of dry turf covered with dead spruce leaves. We were a mile and a
half from the top of Tahawus, and had entered the great belt of spruce
forest encircling the middle regions of the mountain; deciduous trees,
with the exception of a few birches, had already been left behind. Round
these stakes were arranged the great layers of bark, making a perfectly
water-tight cabin, with open doorway, and large enough to give
comfortable shelter to as many as four persons. The enclosed space was
then covered with soft moss, and a thick layer of spruce twigs laid
wrong side up. Over this spicy flooring we spread our gayly-striped
blanket, and then sat down within our substantial wigwam to enjoy the
blaze and crackle of the bright fire of great logs that had been kindled
a few feet from the entrance.

A similar edifice