altar faces the worshippers, with a box of sand,
in which are stuck the burning joss-sticks. Before this is a cushion, on
which they prostrate themselves, telling their beads, as they recite
their prayers inaudibly, and bowing to the earth at intervals of a few
minutes. Behind the altar are the idols. These hideous figures are twice
the size of life, and of frightful shape and features, the principal god
being in a tent-like shrine, which permits only a glimpse of his grim
features in the background. On his right hand is the figure of a man
with the beak of an eagle, and on his left a very grotesque divinity,
with a third eye, like that of the Cyclops, in the centre of his
forehead. These two figures, again, are supported by gigantic guardians,
one on either side, who have nothing absolutely monstrous about them,
being distinguished by their saturnine expression. That to the right
hand bears a striking likeness to Daniel Webster's stern and well-known
features. The deep-set eye and compressed lip were those of the great
expounder.

A heavy cloud from the burning candles and paper offerings filled the
air, and the smell of candle snuff mingled with that of incense. A high
railing separated the worshippers from the idols, but the priests were
quite indifferent and not at all exclusive; so, passing around and
without removing our hats, we made a close inspection of the respected
carvings. A nearer view did not increase their attractions, so, passing
up a flight of stairs, we entered a room where the bonzes were busy
praying for rain and apparently going through a species of litany with
open books in their hands. Our entrance stopped proceedings for a
minute or two, but they soon resumed, quite indifferently, singing and
drawling as though it were tedious, tiresome work.

They were all good-looking men, in the prime of life, dressed in scarlet
and embroidered robes of much richness. Unlike the rest of the people,
they neither shaved nor wore the cue. We found them drawn in a line
before the altar, from which they were separated by a screen: an open
porch at their back let in light and air. Each priest had before him a
little table with a fancy gilt screen upon it, and as they slowly
proceeded with their drawl, at convenient intervals, each made a slight
bow behind his screen, his head touching it. As they did this with the
regularity of drilled soldiers, and to the pounding of a tom-tom, they
evidently were chanting in ch