explore the place,
and noticed with much interest a monument erected to the memory of one
George Abbott, who in days gone by defended Caldecote Hall against a
Royalist attack led by Prince Rupert. So stubborn was the defence that
the defenders melted down the pewter dishes and plate to cast bullets.

We noted with pleasure that the lives of those gallant Roundheads were
spared when the garrison finally had to surrender.

We proceeded on through the Birmingham Canal, passing close by Coventry,
and arrived at Fradley, where we obtained a charming view of Lichfleld
Cathedral in the distance. We rested for the night at Fradley (our bill
for an excellent supper, bed, and breakfast coming to the modest sum of
3_s_. 6_d_. for the two of us), and early next morning got afloat.

We were now on the North Staffordshire Canal, having covered about 160
miles since the commencement of our journey.

We shortly after began to get in the heart of the Pottery District, and
the scenery for some distance assumed the aspect peculiar to manufacturing
centres.

Past Armitage, Rugeley, Colwich, and several other towns and villages we
paddled, until we reached Little Heyward, where we stopped about midday
for lunch.

Re-starting after a rest, we were overtaken by a monkey-barge, the skipper
of which kindly gave us a tow for some miles, until we arrived, in the
afternoon, at Stone, where we went ashore for tea and a look round the
town. On several occasions we took advantage of the good-nature of the
bargees and their wives, and obtained a tow behind their barges when we
wanted a rest. On the whole, we found them a most interesting and sociable
lot of people, and on more than one occasion we were invited on board,
as honoured guests, to partake of tea with the skipper and his family.

Life on board one of these slow-moving canal barges appeared to me to
possess many charms. The barge people seem to pass a sort of amphibious
existence, belonging neither to the land nor to the water, but having a
human interest in each. The women and children almost wholly live aboard
their floating homes, often never stepping ashore from one day to the other
and going about their domestic duties, as well as those connected with
their calling, with all the precision and cheerfulness in the world,
as if there were nothing strange or out-of-the-way in their surroundings.

Then the scenery through which they pass. To anyone who is capable of
appreciati