arge cities and capitals of Europe, greater extent of
locality requires evidently a different method of arrangement: it might
be awkward for the inhabitants of Hyde Park were no hatters to be
found nearer than the Tower. But what is Berezdah compared even with a
second-rate European city? However, in a crowd, it yields to none: the
streets at this time of the day are thronged to choking, and, to make
matters worse, a huge splay-footed camel every now and then, heaving
from side to side like a lubber-rowed boat, with a long beam on his
back, menacing the heads of those in the way, or with two enormous loads
of fire-wood, each as large as himself, sweeping the road before him of
men, women, and children, while the driver, high perched on the hump,
regards such trifles with supreme indifference, so long as he brushes
his path open. Sometimes there is a whole string of these beasts,
the head-rope of each tied to the crupper of his precursor--very
uncomfortable passengers when met with at a narrow turning.

Through such obstacles we have found or made our way, and are now amid
leather and shoemakers' shops, then among copper and iron-smiths, till
at last we emerge on the central town-square, not a bad one either, nor
very irregular, considering that it is in Raseem. About half one side
is taken up by the great mosque, an edifice nearly two centuries old,
judging by its style and appearance, but it bears on no part of it
either date or inscription. A crack running up one side of the tower
bears witness to an earthquake said to have occurred here about thirty
years since.

Another side of the square is formed by an open gallery. In its shade
groups of citizens are seated discussing news or business. The central
space is occupied by camels and by bales of various goods, among which
the coffee of Yemen, henna, and saffron, bear a large part.

From this square several diverging streets run out, each containing a
market-place for this or that ware, and all ending in portals dividing
them from the ordinary habitations. The vegetable and fruit market is
very extensive, and kept almost exclusively by women; so are also the
shops for grocery and spices.

Rock-salt of remarkable purity and whiteness, from Western Raseem, is
a common article of sale, and enormous flakes of it, often beautifully
crystallized, lay piled up at the shop doors. Sometimes a Persian stood
by, trying his skill at purchase or exchange; but these pilgrims were