intelligent man nor the pleasant simpleton would for a moment entertain
this suggestion. They refused with entire dignity--grave, courteous,
firm-and as soon as I had apologized, which I did not without emphasis,
we were on the same terms as before; with handshaking, we took kindly
leave of each other. Such self-respect is the rarest thing in Italy
south of Rome, but in Calabria I found it more than once.

By when I had walked back to the station, hunger exhausted me. There
was no buffet, and seemingly no place in the neighbourhood where food
could be purchased, but on my appealing to the porter I learnt that he
was accustomed to entertain stray travellers in his house hard by,
whither he at once led me. To describe the room where my meal was
provided would be sheer ingratitude: in my recollection it compares
favourably with the _Albergo Nazionale_ of Squillace. I had bread,
salame, cheese, and, heaven be thanked, wine that I could swallow--nay,
for here sounds the note of thanklessness, it was honest wine, of which
I drank freely. Honest, too, the charge that was made; I should have
felt cheap at ten times the price that sudden accession of bodily and
mental vigour. Luck be with him, serviceable _facchino_ of Squillace! I
remember his human face, and his smile of pleasure when I declared all
he modestly set before me good and good again. His hospitality sent me
on my way rejoicing--glad that I had seen the unspeakable little
mountain town, thrice glad that I had looked upon Mons Moscius and
trodden by the river Pellena. Rain fell in torrents, but I no longer
cared. When presently the train arrived, I found a comfortable corner,
and looked forward with a restful sigh to the seven hours' travel which
would bring me into view of Sicily.

In the carriage sat a school-boy, a book open upon his knee. When our
eyes had met twice or thrice, and an ingenuous smile rose to his
handsome face, I opened conversation, and he told me that he came every
day to school from a little place called San Sostene to Catanzaro,
there being no nearer instruction above the elementary; a journey of
some sixteen miles each way, and not to be reckoned by English
standards, for it meant changing at the Marina for the valley train,
and finally going up the mountain side by _diligenza_. The lad flushed
with delight in his adventure--a real adventure for him to meet with
some one from far-off England. Just before we stopped at San Sostene,
he presen