l legends are current as to the origin of this Musta temple, but
they would hardly interest the average reader, though possessing a
certain emphasis and fascination when related to one standing beneath
the shadow of its lofty walls. When it was decided to erect the church,
for some special reason it was particularly desirable to have the new
edifice occupy the same site as the ancient structure already upon the
ground. The question arose as to how this should be brought about.
Knowing that the new temple must be years in course of construction, it
was thought best not to destroy the smaller existing church until a new
place of worship was completed. To meet this exigency, the one now
bearing the grand dome was built outside and over the old one, the
latter remaining undisturbed during the process. The dome, it is said,
was thus constructed without raising any staging around it. When the
walls and all of the new temple were finished, the old church was
demolished and the debris promptly removed. This was certainly a
remarkable architectural achievement.

There are a dozen domes within the city walls, of less size, in view
from the same point which takes in the Musta Pantheon, as it is often
called. Many of the edifices to which they belong are costly structures,
but they are not elegant or attractive. There are a few fine paintings
in these city churches. One by Guido Reni in the church of Santa Maria,
representing Santa Ursula, is highly prized, and is often visited by
connoisseurs in art. It is doubtless an original. Unless one has a
considerable amount of leisure time to dispose of, after a thorough
inspection of the grand church of St. John, there remains little in the
same line worthy of attention in Valletta. A careful study of this
structure and the cathedral of Citta Vecchia will doubtless satisfy the
average traveler.

There are said to be two hundred churches and chapels in the group, but
this is, we should think, an exaggeration. Nevertheless, it is certainly
true that a few less churches and a great many more schools would
redound to the well-being of the inhabitants.

CHAPTER XII.

Public Library of Malta.--British Museum, London.--City
Circulating Library.--Museum of Valletta.--Interesting
Curiosities.--Birthplace of Hannibal.--Pawnbroker's
Establishment.--Savings Bank of the Monte di Pieta.--The
Baraccas.--A Superb View.--An Excursion Inland.--Ancient
Capital