r classes in the first half of the last century who preferred
that their daughters should not learn to read or write, and especially
the latter, as it only enabled them to read letters clandestinely
received from lovers and to reply to them. The natural consequence of
this was the custom, which so largely prevailed, of young men,
absolutely unknown to the parents, establishing correspondence or
meetings with the objects of their adoration by means of a complacent
_doncella_ with an open palm, or the pastime known as _pelando el pavo_
(literally, "plucking the turkey"), which consisted of serenades of love
songs, amorous dialogues, or the passage of notes through the
_reja_--the iron gratings which protect the lower windows of Spanish
houses from the prowling human wolf--or from the balconies. Many a time
have I seen these interesting little missives let down past my balcony
to the waiting gallant below, and his drawn up. Only once I saw a
neighbor, in the balcony below, intercept the post and, I believe,
substitute some other letter."

This seclusion of the young girls is in itself a sufficient comment upon
the sentiments of honor and duty which are current among the male
portion of the population, and it is plain that this condition of
affairs can find little betterment until the nation finds new social
ideals. Such conditions as these are mediaeval, or Oriental at best, and
it is to be hoped that the newer education which is now influencing
Spain may help to bring about a better and saner view of the social
intercourse of men and women. As a direct result of the general
attitude, the men upon the streets of a Spanish city will often surprise
a foreigner by their cool insolence in the presence of the women they
may happen to meet. Her appearance is made the subject for much audible
comment, and such exclamations as _Ay! que buenos ojos! Que bonita
eres!_ [Oh! what fine eyes! How pretty you are!] are only too common.
The woman thus characterized will modify her conduct according to the
necessities of the situation; and if her casual admirer happens to be
young and good-looking and she herself is not averse to flattery, she
will reward him with a quick smile. In any case, the whole matter is
treated as an ordinary occurrence, as it is, and no insult is felt where
none is intended. Such remarks are but an expression, which is
oftentimes naive, of the admiration which is felt at the sight of
unusual feminine charms. The in