ressed on through crooked streets out toward the principal shopping
district, but soon found it impossible to go even that short distance
without a carriage, the heat was so overpowering. We turned to the
old city, Manila proper, passed over the drawbridge, and under the
arch of its inclosing wall, centuries old.

We went to the quartermaster's department to get transportation
to Iloilo. It gave a delightful feeling of protection to see our
soldiers in and about everywhere. At this time Judge William H. Taft
had not been made governor; the city was still under military rule, and
there were constant outbreaks, little insurrections at many points,
especially in the suburbs. We were surprised to find the city so
large and so densely populated.

It is useless to deny that we were in constant fear even when
there were soldiers by. The unsettled conditions gave us a creepy
feeling that expressed itself in the anxious faces and broken words
of our American women. One would say, "Oh I feel just like a fool,
I am so scared." Another would say, "Dear me, don't I wish I were
at home,"--another, "I just wish I could get under some bed and
hide." But for all their fears they stayed, yielding only so far as
to take a short vacation in Japan. There is not much in the way of
sight seeing in Manila beyond the enormous cathedrals many of which
were closed. About five o'clock in the afternoon everybody goes to
the luneta to take a drive on the beach, hear the bands play, and
watch the crowds. It is a smooth beach for about two miles. Here are
the elite of Manila. The friars and priests saunter along, some in
long white many-overlapping capes, and some in gowns. Rich and poor,
clean and filthy, gay and wretched, gather here and stay until about
half-past six, when it is dark. The rich Filipinos dine at eight.

The social life in Manila, as one might suppose, was somewhat
restricted for Americans. The weather is so enervating that it is
impossible to get up very much enthusiasm over entertainments. During
my stay in Manila, in all, perhaps two months, there was little in
the way of social festivity except an occasional ball in the halls
of the Hotel Oriente, nor did the officers who had families there
have accommodations for much beyond an occasional exchange of dinners
and lunches.

The Americans, as a rule, did not take kindly to either entertaining
or being entertained by natives, and besides they could not endure
the heavy, late di