ht from the
hospitality of a delightful cruise in a man-of-war, the band of the
Marine Artillery was ravishing all ears and discoursing sweet music in a
manner that few bands could rival.

We approached St. Pol de Leon, which may be described as an
ecclesiastical, almost a dead city. But how glorious and interesting
some of these dead cities are, with their silent streets and their
remnants of the past! The shadow of death seems upon them, and they
impress you with a mute eloquence more thrilling and effective than the
greatest oration ever listened to.

As we approached St. Pol, which lay half a mile or so from the railway,
its churches and towers were so disposed that the place looked like one
huge ecclesiastical building. These stood out with wonderful effect and
clearness against the background of the sky.

We left the station, and thought we might as well use the omnibus in
waiting. It was small and held about four passengers. As soon as we had
taken our seats two fat priests came up and entered. We felt rather
crowded, and, like the moping owl, resented the intrusion; but when
three stout ladies immediately followed, and looked appealingly at the
state of affairs, it was too much. We gave up our seats and walked; and
presently the omnibus passed us, one of the ladies having wedged herself
in by a miracle between the priests. It would take a yet greater miracle
to unpack them again. The driver looked round with a smile--he had
admitted us into the omnibus and released us--and, pointing to the roof
with his whip, humorously exclaimed: "Complet!"

The towers and steeples of St. Pol de Leon raised themselves mightily in
front of us as we walked, beautiful and imposing. The town dates back to
the sixth century, and though once important, is now almost deserted.
Pol, or Paul, a monk, who, according to one tradition was Welsh,
according to another Cornish, went over to a neighbouring island about
the year 530 and there established a monastery. He became so famous for
his piety that a Breton king founded a bishopric at Leon, and presented
him with the mitre. The name of the town was then changed to St. Pol de
Leon. His successors were men distinguished for their goodness, and St.
Pol became one of the most famous ecclesiastical towns in Brittany.
Churches were built, monasteries and convents were founded.

In course of time its reputation for wealth excited the envy of the
Counts of Leon, and in 875 the Normans came