y the flickering lamp;
inscription at the head of the Tomb: "Solicita Noritubatur";
singular well; old women in the Church; the Image of St. Martha,
with its knees and feet worn by kissing. Proceeded to Cette; the
Amphitheatre is by no means as well preserved as that of Nismes,
but larger; the walls immeasurably thick. Saw the remains of a
Roman theatre; its curious workmanship attests its former
magnificence.
_May 18th--Sabbath._--Back at Marseilles, but no Sabbath here;
theatres all open, and crowds pressing into them; saw some curious
handbills about the Pope granting indulgences; holy water in the
churches; children using it.
_May 20th._--Coast from Marseilles, bold, varied, picturesque;
barren rocks; vineyards and olive trees; entrance into the bay and
harbor of Genoa very beautiful.
_May 21st._--In Genoa the streets are very narrow; the buildings
very high; the city clean; all preferable to Paris; left for
Leghorn.
_May 22nd._--At Leghorn, visited Smollet's tomb. At Pisa, saw the
leaning tower; baptistry, etc.
_May 23rd._--Entered Rome at sunset. We could see St. Peter's more
than fifteen miles off.
_May 25th._--Commenced visiting the churches of the city. 1. Temple
of Antonius; column to his honour, and his victories inscribed. 2.
Church of St. Ignazia; tomb of Gregory XV. 3. Pantheon of
Agrippa--built 22 B.C., of Oriental granite brought from Egypt. The
obelisk is from the Temple of Isis. 4. In the second chapel to the
left, Raphael was buried in 1520. He gave orders to his scholar
Lorenzetto to make the statue of the Virgin, behind which he is
buried. It is ornamented by gold and silver offerings of trinkets,
rings, and bracelets. 5th. Piazza della Minerva--formerly Temple
of Minerva, another of Isis, another of Serapis, now a church
obelisk. Statue of Michael Angelo. 6. Roman College. 7. Palace of
Prince Doria. In the picture gallery I was especially struck by a
beautiful painting of the Holy Family; also Titian, by himself, his
last work. Visited the Church of St. Joseph--under which was the
Mamertine Prison, where St. Paul was confined. Arch of Titus. The
Church of St. Peter's in Vincola has twenty pillars from the
Diocletian Bath, two of them Oriental granite. Michael Angelo's
last work is a marble fig
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