e enough the soldier came along behind. As guide to speak
the many languages for us, we had a Greek graduate of International
College, a very delightful young fellow, very proud of a newly
acquired American citizenship. At last we stopped and bribed that
soldier to tell us what the trouble was. "Our officer thought that you
must be spies because you sent gifts to Turkish soldiers."

At Pergamos, a Greek Christian--very well off--invited us to be his
guests on Greek Christmas Eve. It was the occasion of a large family
gathering. There were fine young men and handsome, dark-eyed girls,
and all the accessories of a delightful Christian home. When the outer
gates had been locked, and the inner doors bolted and blinds drawn
down, and all possible loopholes examined for spies, the usual
festivities were observed. These families of the conquered race have
lived in bondage some four hundred years, but their patriotism has no
more dimmed than that of ancient Israel under her oppressors. Before
we left they danced for us the famous Souliet Dance--memorial to the
brave Greek girls who, driven to their last stand on a rocky hilltop,
jumped one by one over the precipice as the dance came round to each
one, rather than submit to shame and slavery. From our friends at
Smyrna we learned subsequently that when, a few months later, and just
before the war, the German general visited the country, making
overtures to the Turks, the blow fell on this family like many others,
and they suffered the agony of deportation.

At Constantinople the kindness of Mr. Morgenthau, the American
Ambassador, and the optimism bred by Robert College and the Girls'
School, left delightful memories of even the few days in winter that
we spent there. The museum alone is worth the long journey to it, and
when a teacher from the splendid Girls' School, herself a specialist
on the Hittites, was good enough to show it to us, it was like a leap
back into the long history of man. It seemed but a step to the
Neanderthal skull and our Troglodyte forbears.

Owing to shortage of time we returned to England through Bulgaria,
passing through Serbia, and stopping for a day at Budapest and two at
Vienna. We would have been glad to linger longer, for every hour was
delightful.

The month's holiday did me lots of good and sent me back to England a
new man to begin lecturing again in the interests of the distant
Labrador; and with the feeling that, after all, our coast was