f to
the will of Him who alone can stay the proud waves, and on whom heart,
intellect, and feeling, all depend!

25th.--Nothing can be finer than the approach to Teneriffe[39],
especially on such a day as this; the peak now appearing through the
floating clouds, and now entirely veiled by them. As we drew near the
coast, the bay or rather roadstead of Oratava, surrounded by a singular
mixture of rocks, and woods, and scattered towns, started forth at once
from beneath the mists, which seemed to separate it from the peak, whose
cold blue colour formed a strong contrast to the glowing red and yellow
which autumn had already spread on the lower grounds.

[Note 39: The Chinerfe of the Guanches.]

We anchored in forty fathoms water with our chain-cable, as the bottom
is very rocky, excepting where a pretty wide river, which, though now
dry, rolls a considerable body of water to the sea in the rainy season,
has deposited a bed of black mud. There are many rocks in the bay, with
from one to three fathoms water, and within them from nine to ten. The
swell constantly setting in is very great, and renders the anchorage
uncomfortable.

26th.--- I went ashore with Mr. Dance, the second lieutenant, and two of
the young midshipmen, for the purpose of riding to the Villa di Oratava,
which is situated where the ancient Guanche capital stood. We landed at
the Puerto di Oratava, several miles from the villa: it is defended by
some small batteries, at one of which is the very difficult
landing-place, sheltered by a low reef of rocks that runs far out, and
occasions a heavy surf. I took my own saddle ashore: and being mounted
on a fine mule, we all began our journey towards the hill. The road is
rough, but has evidently once been made with some pains, and paved with
blocks of porous lava; but the winter rains have long ago destroyed it,
and it does not seem to be any body's business to put it in repair.

The first quarter of a mile on either hand presented a scene so black
and stony, that I was surprised to learn that we had been passing
through corn land; the harvest was over, and the stubble burned on the
ground. The produce here is scanty; but being so near the port, it
repays the labour and expense of cultivation. We saw the botanical
garden so much praised by Humboldt; but it is in sad disorder, having
been for some time entirely neglected. However, the very establishment
of such a thing brings in new plants, and perhaps naturali