mate; and
some of the pleasantest moments are those in which the visitor lingers
beside one of the fountains, when the blaze and bustle of the day are
over, and the balmy softness of the evening produce a dreamy mood, to
which the music of the waters is irresistibly fascinating.

The most distinguishing feature of the Piazza di Spagna is the wide
staircase which leads up from one side of it to the church of the
Trinita dei Monti, with its twin towers, through whose belfry arches
the blue sky appears. This lofty staircase comprises one hundred and
thirty steps, and the ascent is so gradual, and the landing-places so
broad and commodious, that it is quite a pleasure, even for the most
infirm persons, to mount it. The travertine of which it is composed is
polished into the smoothness of marble by constant use. It is the
favourite haunt of all the painters' models; and there one meets at
certain hours of the day with beautiful peasant girls from the
neighbouring mountains, in the picturesque costumes of the contadini,
and old men with grizzled beards and locks, dressed in ragged cloaks,
the originals of many a saint and Madonna in some sacred pictures,
talking and laughing, or basking with half-shut eyes in the full glare
of the sun. These models come usually from Cervaro and Saracinesco;
the latter an extraordinary Moorish town situated at a great height
among the Sabine hills, whose inhabitants have preserved intact since
the middle ages their Arabic names and Oriental features and customs.

On this staircase used to congregate the largest number of the beggars
of Rome, whose hideous deformities were made the excuse for extorting
money from the soft-hearted forestieri. Happily this plague has now
greatly abated, and one may ascend or descend the magnificent stair
without being revolted by the sight of human degradation, or
persecuted by the importunate outcries of those who are lost to shame.
The Government has done a good thing in diminishing this frightful
mendicancy. But it is to be feared that whilst there are many who beg
without any necessity, sturdy knaves who are up to all kinds of petty
larceny, there are not a few who have no other means of livelihood,
and without the alms of the charitable would die of starvation. The
visitor sees only the gay side of such a place as Rome; but there are
many tragedies behind the scenes. Centuries of misrule under the papal
government had pauperised the people; and the sudden t