nd when the high ground on which the park is situated has been
reached, there is a magnificent view over the Val d'Arno, its thousand
villas, and Florence, with its circle of surrounding hills.
There was once a grand ducal residence there, which was famous in
the later Medicean days for the multiplicity and ingenuity of its
water-works. All kinds of surprises, picturesque and grotesque
effects, and practical jokes, had been prepared by the ingenious, but
somewhat childish skill of the architect. Turning the handle of a
door would produce a shower-bath, sofas would become suddenly boats
surrounded by water, and such like more or less disagreeable surprises
to visitors, who were new to the specialties of the place. But all
this practical joking was at length fatal to the scene of it. The
pipes and conduits got out of order, and eventually so ruined the
edifice that it had to be taken down, and has never been replaced.
But the principal object of attraction--besides the view, the charming
green turf for dining on, the facility for getting hot water, plates,
glasses, &c., from a gardeners house, and a large hall in the same,
good for dancing--was the singular colossal figure, representing "The
Apennine," said to have been designed by Michael Angelo. One used
to clamber up inside this figure, which sits in a half crouching
attitude, and reach on the top of the head a platform, on which four
or five persons could stand and admire the matchless view.
About three miles further, still always ascending the slope of the
Apennine, is a Servite monastery which is the cradle and mother
establishment of the order. Sometimes we used to extend our rambles
thither. The brethren had the reputation, I remember, of possessing a
large and valuable collection of prints. They were not very willing
to exhibit it; but I did once succeed in examining it, and, as I
remember, found that it contained nothing much worth looking at.
A much more favourite amusement of mine was a picnic arranged to last
for two or three days, and intended to embrace objects further afield.
Vallombrosa was a favourite and admirably well selected locality
for this purpose. And many a day and moonlight night never to be
forgotten, have I spent there. Sometimes we pushed our expeditions to
the more distant convents--or "Sanctuaries" as they were called--of
Camaldoli and Lavernia. And of one very memorable excursion to these
two places I shall have to speak in a subse
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