ude are deceptive names. It is
not the circumstance of seeing more or fewer
people, but the readiness of sympathy, that
imports."--EMERSON.

CHAPTER XVIII

LIFE AMONGST THE UPPER TEN THOUSAND

RECORDING HOSPITALITY SHOWN TO US BY THE OFFICIAL CLASSES

IN the centre of every Chinese city stands the _Yamen_, where resides
the Mandarin, addressed as "Father of the people," before whom their
wrongs must be laid, and who, as direct representative of the central
Government, exercises autocratic power. His word is law, a man must
kneel in his presence when addressing him, and it is a penal offence to
enter his private dwelling-court unsummoned. His term of office is
limited to a few years and a change of official entails the removal of
his whole suite. The new Mandarin will bring with him his secretaries,
underlings, men and women servants, and the prosperity of a city will
largely depend upon the personal attitude of the "Great Man" to matters
of reform.

Our intercourse with the Hwochow _Yamen_ has been frequent, and owing to
the strong attitude taken by the leaders of the Church against
interference in law cases where Christians are concerned, it has been of
a purely social character.

My first visit was in answer to a request from the Mandarin that I would
go to see his wife who was suffering from acute toothache. I was
requested to make preparations for an extraction, and was informed that
if it suited my convenience I should be fetched that same afternoon.
Accordingly, I made ready and in due course the _Yamen_ carriage
arrived, a springless, but elegantly upholstered cart, and accompanied
by a woman servant we started. Ahead of us an outrider, dressed in a
long gown, wore a hat of the inverted bowl shape, decorated with a
spreading scarlet tassel. Behind followed other retainers, and thus
escorted we passed in triumphal procession through the quiet Hwochow
streets. After many bumps and anxious moments as we splashed in and out
of mud-pits, we turned into the wide space which surrounds the outermost
entrance of the _Yamen._ Here crowds of men were reading the latest
proclamation pasted to the walls, whilst others, talking earnestly,
discussed the case tried that very day, of the poor man who in vain
sought redress from the rapacity of his wealthy neighbour. He had knelt,
and laying his forehead to the ground at the feet of the Mandarin
pleaded for justice, but only to find th