lready referred to the peculiar geological features of the
Cevennes, and to the limestone strata which embraces the whole
granitic platform of the southern border almost like a frame. As is
almost invariably the case in such formations, large caves, occasioned
by the constant dripping of water, are of frequent occurrence; and
those of the Cevennes, which are in many places of great extent,
constituted a peculiar feature in the Camisard insurrection. There is
one of such caves in the neighbourhood of the Protestant town of
Ganges, on the river Herault, which often served as a refuge for the
Huguenots, though it is now scarcely penetrable because of the heavy
falls of stone from the roof. This cavern has two entrances, one from
the river Herault, the other from the Mendesse, and it extends under
the entire mountain, which separates the two rivers. It is still known
as the "Camisards' Grotto." There are numerous others of a like
character all over the district; but as those of Mialet were of
special importance--Mialet, "the Metropolis of the Insurrection,"
being the head-quarters of Roland--it will be sufficient if we briefly
describe a visit paid to them in the month of June, 1870.
* * * * *
The town of Anduze is the little capital of the Gardonnenque, a
district which has always been exclusively Protestant. Even at the
present day, of the 5,200 inhabitants of Anduze, 4,600 belong to that
faith; and these include the principal proprietors, cultivators, and
manufacturers of the town and neighbourhood. During the wars of
religion, Anduze was one of the Huguenot strongholds. After the death
of Henry IV. the district continued to be held by the Duc de Rohan,
the ruins of whose castle are still to be seen on the summit of a
pyramidal hill on the north of the town. Anduze is jammed in between
the precipitous mountain of St. Julien, which rises behind it, and the
river Gardon, along which a modern quay-wall extends, forming a
pleasant promenade as well as a barrier against the furious torrents
which rush down from the mountains in winter.
A little above the town, the river passes through a rocky gorge formed
by the rugged grey cliffs of Peyremale on the one bank and St. Julien
on the other. The bare precipitous rocks rise up on either side like
two cyclopean towers, flanking the gateway of the Cevennes. The gorge
is so narrow at bottom that there is room only for the river running
in its rock
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