England, full of
ruts with stony rocks and stumps of wood projecting. Arrival at
Gordonville to breakfast at six; paid 50 cents which I could not grudge
as the coffee was very good. The road generally better, but in one or
two places worse than ever I had seen before; many pigs and long-nosed
boars with bristles like porcupines, active in discovering snakes; a
black snake 2 feet long killed by the coachman's whip; a little farther
on a large lizard; a young hare and two partridges; beautiful trees
rising very high on both banks; several saw-mills; the planks covering
the bridges are loose and some of them slender. Got to Charlottesville
at ten; part of the way very sleepy, so that there is danger of falling
especially when jolting.

Dined at Brookville, the first Blue Ridge Mountain, good plain dinner
with excellent milk and honey. Walked up the mountain, saw great
quantities of whinberries; a delightful stream of water near the summit.

Arrived at Staunton at seven, very sleepy the last stage; sometimes the
driver and I asleep at the same time, and the road very hilly, quite
wonderful that I should have arrived safe. Many of the houses here are
built as in Switzerland; trees are just squared and notched, or
dove-tailed at the ends; sometimes the interstices are filled with clay
or mortar. The wild vine climbs to the top of the highest trees.

SATURDAY, JUNE 28TH.

Rose at four having slept very soundly, a natural consequence of only
two hours the night before and riding outside all day. Disappointed
about getting a seat with the driver, which was occupied by a coloured
man whom they would not permit to go inside. Found the passengers truly
American, asking many questions and lauding the country. Passed through
a forest chiefly of oak. A branch of walnut brushed across the coach and
left a perfume behind. Paid for supper and bed 75 cents. Arrived 1/4
past seven A.M. Paid for breakfast 50 cents, the usual price in this
town because not much frequented except at certain seasons to the
spring. Breakfasted at Jenning's Gap. Just before ascending a steep part
of the mountain I got out to walk but it began to rain and I had to
resume my seat. The streams of mud through which we dashed were quite
astounding. On descending we found no rain. Dined at Charrodale on
venison taken in the mountains, 50 cents. One of our travellers, a
German who plays on the guitar and the pianoforte, along with three
others; he sang the "Swiss