e at Wheeling in 48 hours, here, after 56 hours
we are obliged to stop in a poor inn, and to take a bed with four others
in the same room. These are the miseries of travelling; delays upon the
road, especially being confined a day or two in some little
uninteresting spot--so far, however, I have been pretty fortunate, and
should not complain, but like all poor unreasonable mortals, the more we
have, the more we wish to have. The last stage or two very hilly,
covered as usual with forest. This I believe is the character of the
country on both sides of the Ohio.
FRIDAY, JULY 11TH.
Rose soon after four and ferried across the Ohio in two places in
consequence of an island; the ferry impelled across by means of a
windlass letting down frame work into the water, and altering the
position of the boat. When arrived at Wheeling hotel could hear of no
boat till evening. Went again to bed; got up at nine, felt a little
earache and not much appetite for breakfast, occasioned by
disappointment at the delay. At one dined with improved appetite and
actually eat an apple dumpling. Sat and read several newspapers without
finding much from England; then read some good letters in the "North
American Magazine"; felt in better spirits.
Took my place for Pittsburg, 3 dollars, visited a collection of wild
beasts; amused by a monkey riding a Shetland pony, but most gratified by
seeing a rhinoceros and elephant each four years old; the former had
worn his teeth very much; both feed chiefly upon hay. The keeper puts
his head twice a day into the lion's mouth, dangerous only as far as the
animal being disturbed by some of the spectators. A camel or dromedary
(only one hump) also four years old. Sailed from Wheeling 1/4 past
seven; the evening most delightful, the air warm and fragrant, the sky
remarkably clear; the stars and moon appeared nearer. Found from
conversation with the Captain and others that Tuesday or Wednesday have
been considered very warm, also more thunder and lightning than they had
often seen.
SATURDAY, JULY 12TH.
Rose at two, got into the stage at Steubenville, at three the coach
quite full; ferried across the Ohio; passed through Paris; the country
is very hilly and the soil poor. Stopped at Florence to breakfast, the
remainder of the way hilly. On approaching Pittsburgh reminded of home
by the coal and smoke; arrived at one o'clock. More than twenty steamers
lying in the river, here the Ohio is joined by the Al
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