believe that his faith in my
knowledge was not quite misplaced. Even as I write I have just received
the _Catalogue of Prehistoric Works in Eastern America_, by Cyrus
Thomas--a work of very great importance.

Thence we went to Cologne, where it was marvellous to find the Cathedral
completed, in spite of the ancient legend which asserts that though the
devil had furnished its design he had laid a curse upon it, declaring
that it should never be finished. Thence up the Rhine by castles grey
and smiling towns, recalling my old foot-journey along its banks; and so
on to Heidelberg, where I stayed a month at the Black Eagle. Herr Lehr
was still there. He had grown older. His son was taking dancing lessons
of Herr Zimmer, who had taught me to waltz twenty years before. One day
I took my watch to a shop to be repaired, when the proprietor declared
that he had mended it once before in 1847, and showed me the private mark
which he put on it at the time.

There were several American students, who received me very kindly. I
remember among them Wright, Manly, and Overton. When I sat among them
smoking and drinking beer, and mingling German student words with
English, it seemed as if the past twenty years were all a dream, and that
I was a _Bursch_ again. Overton had the reputation of being _par
eminence_ the man of men in all Heidelberg, who could take off a full
quart at one pull without stopping to take breath--a feat which I had far
outdone at Munich, in my youth, with the _horn_, and which I again
accomplished at Heidelberg "without the foam," Overton himself, who was a
very noble young fellow, applauding the feat most loudly. But I have
since then often done it with Bass or Alsopp, which is much harder. I
need not say that the "Breitmann Ballads," which had recently got among
the Anglo-American students, and were by them greatly admired, did much
to render me popular.

I found or made many friends in Heidelberg. One night we were invited to
a supper, and learned afterwards that the two children of our host,
having heard that we were Americans, had peeped at us through the keyhole
and expressed great disappointment at not finding us _black_.

In November we went to Dresden. We were so fortunate as to obtain
excellent rooms and board with a Herr and Madame Rohn, a well-to-do
couple, who, I am sure, took boarders far more for the sake of company
than for gain. Herr Rohn had graduated at Leipzig, but having spent