"Brother," or give them cigars, or talk Malagano politely. She was not
even "half-Spanish," and therefore, as we used to say at college of
certain unpopular people, was "a bad smoke."

We went on shore on Sunday, which in those days always made Gibraltar
literally like a fancy ball. The first person whom I met was a pretty
young lady in full, antique, rich Castilian costume, followed by a
servant bearing her book of devotion. Seeing my gaze of admiration, she
smiled, at which I bowed, and she returned the salute and went her way.
Such an event had never happened to me before in all my life. I accepted
it philosophically as one of a new order of things into which I was
destined to enter. Then I saw men from every part of Spain in quaint
dresses, Castilians in cloaks, Andalusians in the jaunty _majo_ rig,
Gallegos, Moors from the Barbary coast, many Greeks, old Jews in
gabardines, Scotch Highland soldiers, and endless more--_concursus
splendidus_--_non possum non mirari_.

I felt myself very happy and very much at home in all this. I strolled
about the streets talking Spanish to everybody. Then I met with a
smuggler, who asked me if I wanted to buy cigars. I did. In New York my
uncle George had given me a box of five hundred excellent Havanas, and
these had lasted me exactly twenty days. I had smoked the last twenty-
five on the last day. So I went and bought at a low enough figure a box
of the worst cigars I had ever met with. But youth can smoke
anything--except deceit.

Entrance to the galleries was strictly forbidden in those days, but an
incorruptible British sergeant, for an incorruptible dollar or two,
showed us over them. There was, too, a remarkable man, a ship-chandler
named Felipe, to whom I was introduced. Felipe spoke twenty-four
languages. He boarded every ship and knew everybody. Gibraltar was then
a vast head-quarters of social evils, or blessings, and Felipe, who was a
perfect Hercules, mentioned incidentally that he had had a new _maja_, or
_moza_, or _muger_, or _puta_, every night for twenty years! which was
confirmed by common report. It was a firm principle with him to always
_change_. This extraordinary fact made me reflect deeply on it as a
_psychological_ phenomenon. This far surpassed anything I had ever heard
at Princeton. Then this and that great English dignitary was pointed out
to me--black eyes ogled me--everybody was polite, for I had a touch of
the Spanish manner wh