interesting, and well
worth seeing and exploring with a reconstructive eye.

[Sidenote: THE TWO DICKERS]

A little further west is the Dicker--or rather the two Dickers, Upper
Dicker and Lower Dicker, large commons between Arlington in the south
and Chiddingly in the north. Here are some of the many pottery works for
which Sussex is famous.

[Illustration: _Beachy Head._]

CHAPTER XXXIV

EASTBOURNE

Select Eastbourne. The "English Salvator Rosa"--Sops and Ale--Beau
Chef--"The Breeze on Beachy Head"--Shakespeare and the Cliff--"To a
Seamew"--The new lighthouse--Parson Darby and his cave--East Dean's
bells--The Two Sisters--Friston's Selwyn monument--West Dean.

Eastbourne is the most select, or least democratic, of the Sussex
watering places. Fashion does not resort thither as to Brighton in the
season, but the crowds of excursionists that pour into Brighton and
Hastings are comparatively unknown at Eastbourne; which is in a sense a
private settlement, under the patronage of the Duke of Devonshire.
Hastings is of the people; Brighton has a character almost continental;
Eastbourne is select. Lawn tennis and golf are its staple products, one
played on the very beautiful links behind the town hard by Compton
Place, the residence of the Duke; the other in Devonshire Park. It is
also an admirable town for horsemanship.

[Sidenote: THE ENGLISH SALVATOR ROSA]

Eastbourne has had small share in public affairs, but in 1741 John
Hamilton Mortimer, the painter, sometimes called the Salvator Rosa of
England, was born there. From a memoir of him which Horsfield prints, I
take passages: "Bred on the sea-coast, and amid a daring and rugged race
of hereditary smugglers, it had pleased his young imagination to walk on
the shore when the sea was agitated by storms--to seek out the most
sequestered places among the woods and rocks, and frequently, and not
without danger, to witness the intrepidity of the contraband
adventurers, who, in spite of storms and armed excisemen, pursued their
precarious trade at all hazards. In this way he had, from boyhood,
become familiar with what amateurs of art call 'Salvator Rosa-looking
scenes'; he loved to depict the sea chafing and foaming, and fit 'to
swallow navigation up'--ships in peril, and pinnaces sinking--banditti
plundering, or reposing in caverns--and all such situations as are
familiar to pirates on water, and outlaws on land....

"Of his eccentricities