r
chapter. The church is very simple and well-cared for, with some pretty
south windows. The small memorial tablets of brass which have been let
into the floor symmetrically among the tiles seem to me a happier means
of commemoration than mural tablets,--at least for a modest building
such as this.

[Sidenote: VAGARIES OF PRONUNCIATION]

In losing your way in this neighbourhood do not ask the passer-by for
Selmeston, but for Simson; for Selmeston, pronounced as spelt, does not
exist. Sussex men are curiously intolerant of the phonetics of
orthography. Brighthelmstone was called Brighton from the first,
although only in the last century was the spelling modified to agree
with the sound. Chalvington (the name of a village north of Selmeston)
is a pretty word, but Sussex declines to call it other than Chawton.
Firle becomes Furrel; Lewes is almost Lose, but not quite; Heathfield is
Hefful. It is characteristic of a Sussex man that he always knows best;
though all the masters of all the colleges should assemble about him and
speak reasoningly of Selmeston he would leave the congress as
incorrigible and self-satisfied a Simsonian as ever.

Many years ago Selmeston churchyard possessed an empty tomb, in which
the smugglers were wont to store their goods until a favourable time
came to set them on the road. Any objections that those in authority
might have had were silenced by an occasional tub. But of this more in
the next chapter.

[Sidenote: ALFRISTON]

And so we come to Alfriston; but, as I said, the right way was over the
hills, ascending them either at Itford (crossing the Ouse at Southease)
or by that remarkable combe, one of the finest in Sussex, with an avenue
leading to it, which is gained from a lane south of Beddingham. Firle
Beacon's lofty summit is half-way between Beddingham and Alfriston, and
from this height, with its magnificent view of the Weald, we descend
steadily to the Cuckmere valley, of which Alfriston is the capital.

Alfriston, which is now only a village street, shares with Chichester
the distinction of possessing a market cross. Alfriston's specimen is,
however, sadly mutilated, a mere relic, whereas Chichester's is being
made more splendid as I write. Alfriston also has one of the oldest inns
in the county--the "Star"--(finer far in its way than any of
Chichester's seventy and more); but Ainsworth was wrong in sending
Charles II. thither, in _Ovingdean Grange_. It is one of the inns that
t