for him. Both Tindal's assistants in this great
work--Fryth and Roye--suffered martyrdom before his death. I am sorry to
find, by history, that Sir Thomas More employed one Phillips to go over
to Antwerp and decoy Tindal into the hands of the emperor. The last
words of the martyr were, "Lord! open the King of England's eyes." Sir
Thomas More was a bitter persecutor, and he was "recompensed in his own
ways." Not far from Vilvorde are the remains of the chateau of Rubens;
and in the same vicinity is the house where Teniers is said to have
lived. Mechlin, or Malines, is a fine-looking town, with twenty-five
thousand inhabitants, and it is spelt by early writers ways without
number. The railroad just touches on its skirts, and, of course, we
could only look at it. Its cathedral church loomed up; and we longed to
see its interior, where Vandyke's greatest picture--the Crucifixion--is
found in the altar. The tower shows well at a distance. The other
churches have some pictures of great merit, by Rubens. After passing
Mechlin, we saw at our right a large town, lying, perhaps, two miles
off, and then a still smaller one to the left, and a fine old castle,
which looked in good preservation. The road led us through some fine
country residences; and, just before entering Antwerp, we passed
Berchem, a sweet little village. And I would not omit to say that the
small place called Vieux Dieu, before we came to Berchem, is famous for
being one of the last places where heathenism retained its hold in this
port of Europe, and here was formerly an idol.
Antwerp--or, as the French write it, Anvers--is a noble city on the
River Scheldt, and is about twenty-seven miles from Brussels. The
population is rather more than eighty thousand. The city is laid out in
the shape of a bow, and the river forms the string. The river here is
one hundred and ninety yards wide. The tide rises about fifteen feet.
This place is of very ancient origin, and its legends are mixed up with
the fabulous. Early in the sixteenth century it was an important town.
It was fortified, and became one of the chief places of trade for the
north of Europe. In 1520, the population was over two hundred thousand.
Five hundred vessels daily came into and left the port, and two thousand
others were always lying in the river and basins of the port. The death
blow to this place was the treaty of Munster, which stipulated that
every vessel entering the Scheldt should discharge her ca
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