accommodation is so modified as to allow four persons to sit in it back
to back; that is, three besides the driver. It is built for great
strength, the wheels being enormously heavy, and the pole of the size of
a mast. Harness the horses have none, save a single belt with a sort of
lock at the top, which fits into the iron yoke through the pole, and can
slide from it to the extremity; there is neither breeching nor trace nor
collar, and the reins run from the heavy curb bit directly through loops
on the yoke to the driver's hands. The latter, a wiry, long-bearded
Mohammedan, is armed with a long whip attached to a short thick stock,
and though he sits low, on the same level as the passenger beside him on
the front seat, he guides his half broken horses with amazing dexterity
round sharp curves and by giddy precipices, where neither parapet nor
fencing give the startled mind even a momentary impression of security.
The road from Simla to Kalka at the foot of the hills is so narrow that
if two vehicles meet, the one has to draw up to the edge of the road,
while the other passes on its way. In view of the frequent encounters,
every tonga-driver is provided with a post horn of tremendous power and
most discordant harmony; for the road is covered with bullock carts
bearing provisions and stores to the hill station. Smaller loads, such
as trunks and other luggage, are generally carried by coolies, who
follow a shorter path, the carriage road being ninety-two miles from
Umballa, the railroad station, to Simla, but a certain amount may be
stowed away in the tonga, of which the capacity is considerable.

In three of these vehicles our party of six began the descent on Tuesday
morning, wrapped in linen "dusters" of various shades and shapes, and
armed with countless varieties of smoking gear. The roughness of the
road precludes all possibility of reading, and, after all, the rapid
motion and the constant appearance of danger--which in reality does not
exist--prevent any overpowering _ennui_ from assailing the dusty
traveller. So we spun along all day, stopping once or twice for a little
refreshment, and changing horses every five or six miles. Everybody was
in capital spirits, and we changed seats often, thus obtaining some
little variety. Isaacs, who to every one's astonishment, seemed not to
feel any inconvenience from his accident, clung to his seat in Miss
Westonhaugh's tonga, sitting in front with the driver, while she and h