x
Sinbad, in the indulgence of his propensity to strike out a new path for
himself, plunged overhead into a deep hole, and so soused me that I was
obliged to move on to dry my clothing, without calling on the Europeans
who live on the bank. This I regretted, for all the Portuguese were very
kind, and, like the Boers placed in similar circumstances, feel it a
slight to be passed without a word of salutation. But we went on to a
spot where orange-trees had been planted by the natives themselves, and
where abundance of that refreshing fruit was exposed for sale.

On entering the district of Ambaca, we found the landscape enlivened
by the appearance of lofty mountains in the distance, the grass
comparatively short, and the whole country at this time looking gay and
verdant. On our left we saw certain rocks of the same nature with those
of Pungo Andongo, and which closely resemble the Stonehenge group on
Salisbury Plain, only the stone pillars here are of gigantic size. This
region is all wonderfully fertile, famed for raising cattle, and all
kinds of agricultural produce, at a cheap rate. The soil contains
sufficient ferruginous matter, to impart a red tinge to nearly the whole
of it. It is supplied with a great number of little flowing streams
which unite in the Lucalla. This river drains Ambaca, then falls into
the Coanza to the southwest at Massangano. We crossed the Lucalla by
means of a large canoe kept there by a man who farms the ferry from the
government, and charges about a penny per head. A few miles beyond the
Lucalla we came to the village of Ambaca, an important place in former
times, but now a mere paltry village, beautifully situated on a little
elevation in a plain surrounded on all hands by lofty mountains. It
has a jail, and a good house for the commandant, but neither fort nor
church, though the ruins of a place of worship are still standing.

We were most kindly received by the commandant of Ambaca, Arsenio de
Carpo, who spoke a little English. He recommended wine for my debility,
and here I took the first glass of that beverage I had taken in Africa.
I felt much refreshed, and could then realize and meditate on the
weakening effects of the fever. They were curious even to myself;
for, though I had tried several times since we left Ngio to take lunar
observations, I could not avoid confusion of time and distance, neither
could I hold the instrument steady, nor perform a simple calculation;
hence many of