all the way to
Linyanti.

At Trombeta we were pleased to observe a great deal of taste displayed
by the sub-commandant in the laying out of his ground and adornment of
his house with flowers. This trifling incident was the more pleasing,
as it was the first attempt at neatness I had seen since leaving the
establishment of Mozinkwa in Londa. Rows of trees had been planted
along each side of the road, with pine-apples and flowers between. This
arrangement I had an opportunity of seeing in several other districts of
this country, for there is no difficulty in raising any plant or tree if
it is only kept from being choked by weeds.

This gentleman had now a fine estate, which but a few years ago was
a forest, and cost him only 16 Pounds. He had planted about 900
coffee-trees upon it, and as these begin to yield in three years from
being planted, and in six attain their maximum, I have no doubt but that
ere now his 16 Pounds yields him sixty fold. All sorts of fruit-trees
and grape-vines yield their fruit twice in each year, without any labor
or irrigation being bestowed on them. All grains and vegetables, if only
sown, do the same; and if advantage is taken of the mists of winter,
even three crops of pulse may be raised. Cotton was now standing in the
pods in his fields, and he did not seem to care about it. I understood
him to say that this last plant flourishes, but the wet of one of the
two rainy seasons with which this country is favored sometimes proves
troublesome to the grower. I am not aware whether wheat has ever been
tried, but I saw both figs and grapes bearing well. The great complaint
of all cultivators is the want of a good road to carry their produce to
market. Here all kinds of food are remarkably cheap.

Farther on we left the mountainous country, and, as we descended toward
the west coast, saw the lands assuming a more sterile, uninviting
aspect. On our right ran the River Senza, which nearer the sea takes the
name of Bengo. It is about fifty yards broad, and navigable for canoes.
The low plains adjacent to its banks are protected from inundation by
embankments, and the population is entirely occupied in raising food
and fruits for exportation to Loanda by means of canoes. The banks are
infested by myriads of the most ferocious mosquitoes I ever met. Not one
of our party could get a snatch of sleep. I was taken into the house
of a Portuguese, but was soon glad to make my escape and lie across the
path