seen the fair.
Passing hurriedly through the principal bazaars, we could only glance
about, for we were almost suffocated by the surging crowds, which
pressed upon us in spite of the utmost exertions of our cavasses.
Indeed, we were all too much accustomed to bazaars to have much
curiosity about these. Escaping to the outskirts of the town, where the
real fair was held, we found the fun growing fast and furious, and the
different sights and sounds more and more bewildering. Here were
hundreds of tents and other temporary erections, and swarms of people of
the quaintest appearance, buying and selling, cooking, eating and
drinking, praying, quarrelling and chaffing. Of course the blue cotton
long shirts of the indigenous Fellahs lent the principal color to the
crowd, but this was relieved by the most brilliant-colored clothing
among the visitors and traders, including the red fez on most heads, the
red and yellow headgear of the Arabs, the black caps of the Copts, and
the white uniforms of the viceroy's nizam or regular soldiers. Sherbet-
and water-sellers pervaded the scene, and added the chatter of their
voices and the clatter of their brass cups to the already indescribable
din. There were piles of different sorts of grain; harness for horses,
camels and buffaloes; heaps of carpets and rugs and clothing; fez caps,
papooshes, pipes and tobacco, mostly the common Jibileh; brass and
copper cups and cooking utensils, and cheap jewelry and trinkets.
Farther on was a space reserved for buying and selling horses, donkeys,
camels and cattle, and here were to be seen fellows who would not be off
their feet at Tattersall's or at a Kentucky "quarter race," so much are
jockeys and horse-dealers alike all the world over. It was really
amusing to recognize the well-known "horsey" look from under the
_kufieh_ of an Arab whenever the chance for a "trade" presented itself.

Near the horse-fair we became aware of music of a peculiar kind, with a
good deal of tambourine in it, proceeding from a closed tent; and upon
its becoming known that our party was present, out streamed from the
door a group of musicians and almehs, or dancing-women; the latter in
rather light attire, but covered, as to their heads, bosoms, arms and
ankles, with strings of jingling coins--some with toe-rings, and all
with the eyes heavily lined out with kohl and fingers stained with
henna. These people have not, for many years, been permitted publicly to
exercise t