eet Waters of Europe" to see the
Turkish ladies, who in pleasant weather always go out there in carriages
or by water in caiques. Compared with our parks, with their lovely lakes
and streams and beautiful lawns, the far-famed Sweet Waters of Europe
are only fields with a canal running through them; but here, where this
is the only stream of fresh water near the city, and in a country
destitute of trees, it is a charming place. The stream has been walled
up to the top of its banks, which are from three to six feet above the
water, and there are sunny meadows and fine large trees on each side.
The sultan has a summer palace here with a pretty garden, and the stream
has been dammed up by blocks of white marble cut in scallops like
shells, over which the water falls in a cascade. The road to the Sweet
Waters, with one or two others, was made after the sultan's return from
his European trip, and in anticipation of the empress Eugenie's visit.
European carriages were also introduced at that time. The ladies of the
sultan's harem drive out in very handsome coupes, with coachmen wearing
the sultan's livery, but you more frequently see the queer one-horse
Turkish carriage, and sometimes a "cow-carriage." This last is drawn by
cows or oxen: it is an open wagon, with a white cloth awning ornamented
with gay fringes and tassels. Many people go in caiques, and all carry
bright-colored rugs, which they spread on the grass. There they sit for
several hours and gossip with each other, or take their luncheons and
spend the afternoon. A Turkish woman is never seen to better advantage
than when "made up" for such an excursion. Her house-dress is always
hidden by a large cloak, which comes down to the ground and has loose
sleeves and a cape. The cloak is left open at the neck to show the lace
and necklace worn under it, and is generally made of silk, often of
exquisite shades of pink, blue, purple or any color to suit the taste of
the wearer. A small silk cap, like the low turbans our ladies wore eight
or nine years ago, covers the head, and on it are fastened the most
brilliant jewels--diamond pins, rubies, anything that will flash. The
wearer's complexion is heightened to great brilliancy by toilet arts,
and over all, covering deficiencies, is the yashmak or thin white veil,
which conceals only in part and greatly enhances her beauty. You think
your "dream of fair women" realized, and go home and read _Lalla Rookh_
and rave of Eastern peri