day the Jewish, and the Greeks and Armenians keep Sunday.
The indolent government officials, glad of an excuse to be idle, keep
all three--that is, they refrain from business--so there are only four
days out of the seven in which anything is accomplished.

One of the great sights is to see the sultan go to the mosque; so one
Friday we took a caique and were rowed up the Bosphorus to Dolma Backte,
and waited on the water opposite the palace. The sultan's caique was at
the principal entrance on the water-side of the palace, and the steps
and marble pavement were carpeted from the caique to the door. Presently
all the richly-dressed officers of the household, who were loitering
around, formed on either side the steps, and, bending nearly double,
remained so while the sultan passed down to his caique. Abdul Assiz is
quite stout and rather short, with a pleasant face and closely-cut
beard. He was dressed in a plain black uniform, his breast covered with
orders. The sultan's caique was a magnificent barge--white, profusely
ornamented with gilt, and rowed by twenty-four oarsmen dressed in white,
who rose to their feet with each stroke, bowed low, and settled back in
their seats as the stroke was expended. The sultan and grand vizier
seated themselves under the plum-colored velvet canopy, and the caique
proceeded swiftly toward the mosque, followed by three other caiques
with his attendants. A gun from an iron-clad opposite the palace
announced that the sultan had started. The shore from the palace to the
mosque was lined with soldiers; the bands played; the people cheered;
the ships ran up their flags; all the war-vessels were gay with bunting,
had their yards manned and fired salutes, which were answered by the
shore-batteries. The mosque selected for that day's devotions was in
Tophaneh, near the water. Several regiments were drawn up to receive the
sultan, and an elegant carriage and a superb Arab saddle-horse were in
waiting, so that His Majesty might return to the palace as best suited
his fancy. After an hour spent in devotion the sultan reappeared, and
entering his carriage was driven away. We saw him again on our way
home, when he stopped to call on an Austrian prince staying at the
legation. The street leading up to the embassy was too narrow and steep
for a carriage, so, mounting his horse at the foot, he rode up, passing
very close to us.

[Illustration: TURKISH COW-CARRIAGE.]

In the afternoon we drove to the "Sw