e were
closed, and regained the mountains without the smallest impediment.

Having permitted Yusuf to refresh himself with food and rest, and being
now perfectly satisfied that his story was true, and that all confidence
might be placed in his integrity, I ordered my party to hold themselves
in readiness to return to Erivan. He was permitted to ride behind either
of the horsemen when tired with walking, and in this manner, taking the
shortest cuts over the mountains, we regained the village of Ashtarek.
Whilst we stopped here to refresh ourselves and horses, and to gain
intelligence of the movements of the serdar and the chief executioner, I
permitted the youth to visit his wife. He returned beaming with joy, for
he had found her almost cured of her bruises, and full of thanks for the
kindness and hospitality with which she had been treated.

The serdar and the chief executioner had moved from Erivan, and were now
encamped close to the residence of the Armenian patriarch; and thither
we bent our steps, accompanied by Yusuf.

CHAPTER XL

Hajji Baba gives an account of his proceedings to his superiors, and
shows himself a friend to the distressed.

The monastery of Etchmiazin, so called in the Armenian tongue, or Utch
Klisseh, or the Three Churches, by the Turks and Persians, is situated
in a large and well-cultivated plain, watered by the Araxes, and several
smaller streams. It stands at the foot of the high mountain of Agri
Dagh, which the Christians, and in particular the Armenians, hold in
great veneration, because (so Yusuf informed me) upon its conspicuous
snow-capt summit the ark of Noah rested. The monastery and church,
celebrated throughout Asia for the riches which they contain, are
enclosed within high walls, and secured by strong and massive gates.
It is here that the head of the Armenian church constantly resides,
together with a large retinue of bishops, priests, and deacons, who form
the stock which provides clergy for most of the Armenian churches in
Asia. The title by which he is known in Persia is _khalifeh_ or caliph,
a designation which, comprising the head of the civil as well as the
religious government, the Mussulmans used formerly to bestow on
the sovereigns who held their sway at Bagdad and elsewhere. By the
Christians he is generally known by the name of patriarch, and his
church is an object of pilgrimage for the Armenians, who flock there at
particular seasons in great numbers from d