honey, and other trifles.
My back became so painful, that I was obliged to inquire if no one at
Semnan could afford me relief. The barber and the farrier were the
only two supposed to possess any medical talents; the one skilled
in bleeding, drawing teeth, and setting a limb; the other, from his
knowledge in the diseases of horses, being often consulted in human
ailments. There was also a _gis sefid_, or grey wig, an old woman of a
hag-like and decrepit appearance, who was looked up to as an oracle in
all cases where the knowledge of the barber and farrier was of no avail,
and who had besides a great many nostrums and recipes for all sorts of
aches. Each came to me in succession: all were agreed that my disorder
proceeded from cold; and as fire was the hottest thing in opposition
to cold that they knew of, they as unanimously agreed that the actual
cautery should immediately be applied to the part; and the farrier, on
account of his dealings in hot and cold iron, was appointed operator. He
accordingly brought a pan of charcoal, a pair of bellows, and some small
skewers; and seating himself in a corner, made his fire, and heated his
skewers: when they were red hot, I was placed on the ground flat on
my face, and then, with great solemnity, my back was seared with the
burning iron, whilst all the bystanders, at every touch, exclaimed, with
great earnestness, '_Khoda shefa midehed_,' God gives relief. My medical
attendants, in their united wisdom, out of compliment to the prophet and
the twelve Imams, marked me in thirteen different places; and although,
when I had endured half the operation, I began to cry out most lustily
with the pain, still I was not let off until the whole was gone through.
It was long before the wounds which they had inflicted were cured; and
as they never would heal unless I was kept in perfect quiet, I confined
myself to my cell for a considerable time; at the end of which, my
sprain had entirely taken its leave, and strength was restored to my
whole frame. Of course, my recovery was attributed to the thirteen
worthies, who had presided over the operation, and all the town became
more than ever persuaded of the efficacy of hot iron; but I could not
but think that long repose had been my best doctor--an opinion which
I took care to keep to myself; for I had no objection that the world
should believe that I was a protege of so many holy personages.

I now determined to pursue my journey to Tehran; but