s
engaged to meet one of the Fathers at noon, and could not go, but
introduced to me a relative of his, a young student of medicine in the
University, who offered to take me to the Presidio and other places, the
next day.

It occurred to us to call upon a young American lady, who was residing
at the house of a Spanish lady of wealth and rank, and invite her to go
with us to see the Beneficencia, which we thought she might do, as it is
an institution under the charge of nuns, and she was to go with a Padre
in full dress. But the customs of the country are rigid. Miss---- was
very desirous to go, but had doubts. She consulted the lady of the
house, who would know, if any one could, the etiquette of Havana. The
Senora's reply was, "You are an American, and may do anything." This
settled the matter in the negative, and we went alone. Now we drive to
Don Juan---- 's. The gate is closed. The driver, who is a white, gets
off and makes a feeble and timid rap at the door. "Knock louder!" says
my friend, in Spanish. "What cowards they are!" he adds to me. The man
makes a knock, a little louder. "There, see that! Peeking into the
keyhole! Mean! An Englishman would beat the door down before he would do
that." Don Juan is in the country, so we fail of all our expected
companions.

The Casa de Beneficencia is a large institution, for orphan and
destitute children, for infirm old persons, and for the insane. It is
admirably situated, bordering on the open sea, with fresh air and very
good attention to ventilation in the rooms. It is a government
institution, but is placed under charge of the Sisters of Charity, one
of whom accompanied us about the building. Though called a government
institution, it must not be supposed that it is a charity from the
crown. On the contrary, it is supported by a specific appropriation of
certain of the taxes and revenues of the island. In the building is a
church not yet finished, large enough for all the inmates, and a quiet
little private chapel for the Sisters' devotions, where a burning lamp
indicated the presence of the Sacrament on the small altar. I am sorry
to have forgotten the number of children. It was large, and included
both sexes, with a separate department for each. In a third department
are the insane. They are kindly treated and not confined, except when
violent; but the Sister told us they had no medical treatment unless in
case of sickness. (Dr. Howe told me that he was also so info