g orders to the brave courier to
join me at Puebla, I embarked with my friends one day at noon in a small
launch, and a stiff sea-breeze soon wafted us forty miles; then entering
a narrow creek, formed by high sedgy reeds that sprang from the shallow
water, we performed a tortuous serpentine track, in a labyrinth that
fairly required Ariadne's clue to thread its mazy windings; actually
sailing sixteen miles to gain three, as the bird flies; at last we
arrived at the _embarcadera_ of San Jose; and after a fatiguing walk, at
dark we came upon a tenement. The house was filled with women and dogs,
who chattered and cheated, dinned and dunned us to such a pitch that we
were obliged to seek shelter elsewhere; and accordingly we _packed_ our
saddles, blankets and rifles, and at about nine o'clock reached the
estate of one Don Ignacio de Sylva. Our host received us with open arms,
prepared a supper of beef and _tortillas_, and in return, we
complimented him with strong rummers of punch; his fat spouse joined in
the festivities, and when the evening was somewhat advanced, a
shake-down was arranged for us on the floor of the _sala_, which,
fortunately for fleas and ourselves, chanced to be laid with a floor of
boards. My slumbers were greatly disturbed by being placed in full view
of a pretty young brunette, whose light from an adjoining apartment
threw her form in most distinct rays of animated beauty, amusing herself
the while playing with a baby, whilst her filthy villain of a husband
regaled himself for an hour or more with a _cigarrito_. My dreams were
none of the pleasantest, and I was glad when day dawned to light me out
of the dwelling, and breathe the pure morning air. _Como les gusta a los
Americanos el fresco_, said our lazy host, as he sat wrapped in a
blanket on a hide, observing me take a bath in a little rivulet near by;
_se hace dano_--be the death of him--as he blew the cigar smoke from his
lungs with a deep sigh! Notwithstanding his indolence we found him a
most consummate extortioner, and after throwing every impediment in our
way, he hired us miserable horses at an extravagant rate; and then
mounting, we took the road over a dry, salt, marshy country. Passing the
mission of St. Josephs, we never halted until reaching Puebla, where we
were most kindly welcomed by Mr. Ruckle. The town is planted in the
midst of the great plain, with small streams of water, which is much
needed elsewhere, coursing on either side. T