en -- The
Sistine Madonna 74

CHAPTER VII. SAINT PETERSBURG.

Arrival at St. Petersburg -- The Beautiful Grandduchess
Elisabeth -- Catherine II. Receives Mme. Lebrun -- And Is
Most Gracious -- Petty Court Intrigues -- A Visit to Count
Strogonoff -- Hospitality of the Russians -- An Ambassador
as Gardener -- Princess Dolgoruki and Her Hideous Admirer --
The Extravagances of Potemkin -- His End 83

CHAPTER VIII. LIFE IN RUSSIA.

Painting Russian Royalties -- Festivities at Court -- The
Pangs of Waiting for Dinner -- "To Keep Warm, Spend the
Winter in Russia" -- The Hardiness of Its Common People --
Who Are Well Suited with Serfdom -- And Remarkably Honest --
The Quaint Ceremonial of Blessing the Neva -- Various Social
Customs 96

CHAPTER IX. CATHERINE II.

Surroundings of St. Petersburg -- Patriarchal
Unconventionalities -- An Artillery Repast -- The Greatness
of the Second Catherine -- Who Lit Her Own Fire and Made Her
Own Coffee -- And Was Sworn at by a Chimney Sweeper -- Other
Domestic Amenities in the Career of an Empress -- The Suit
of Gustavus IV. -- Catherine's Death -- Humiliating Funeral
Incidents 109

CHAPTER X. THE EMPEROR PAUL.

Accession of the Emperor Paul -- His Arbitrary Rule -- His
Civility to the Authoress -- A Man Who Did Not Know the
Emperor's Address -- Paul's Kindness to Foreigners -- His
Fear of Assassination -- His Personal Appearance -- The
Empress Maria -- Vagaries of a Half-Mad Emperor -- A Noble
Prelate 119

CHAPTER XI. FAMILY AFFAIRS.

Poniatowski, Last King of Poland -- His Amiable Character --
The Authoress's Faculty of Presaging Death -- Poniatowski
the Nephew -- Mme. Lebrun Received as a Member of the St.
Petersburg Academy -- Her Daughter's Untoward Marriage --
Resulting in Estrangement Between Mother and Child 131

CHAPTER XII. MOSCOW.

Journey to Moscow -- A Bad Smell and Its Origin -- First
Impression of Moscow -- Another Impression, Oral and
Unpleasing -- The Kremlin -- Steam-and-Snow Bathing --
Society -- Luxurious Prince Kurakin -- An Impossible