artments are furnished with long, broad divans
for men and women to sit on. I became so used to them that after a
time I could not sit on a chair.

The Russian lady's salute is a bow, seeming to me more dignified and
graceful than our courtesy. They do not ring for their servants, but
signal to them by clapping their hands together, as sultanas are said
to do in the harems. Every Russian lady has a man in full livery at
the door of her drawing-room; he is always there to open the door for
visitors, whom it was at that time the custom not to announce by name.
But what seemed stranger still to me was that some of these ladies
made a female serf sleep under their bed.

Of an evening I went out into society. There were innumerable balls,
concerts and theatrical performances, and I thoroughly enjoyed these
gatherings, where I found all the urbanity, all the grace of French
company. It seemed as though good taste had made a jump with both feet
from Paris to St. Petersburg. Nor was there a lack of open houses, and
in all of them one was welcomed with the greatest hospitality. One met
at about eight and supped at ten. In the meantime tea was drunk, like
everywhere else. But the Russian tea is so excellent that I--with whom
it does not agree, and who must abstain from it--was glad to inhale
its aroma. Instead of tea I drank hydromel. This tasty beverage is
made with good honey and a small fruit picked in the Russian woods; it
is left in the cellar for a certain length of time before bottling. I
found it far preferable to cider, beer, or even lemonade.

CHAPTER IX

CATHERINE II.

SURROUNDINGS OF ST. PETERSBURG -- PATRIARCHAL UNCONVENTIONALITIES
-- AN ARTILLERY REPAST -- THE GREATNESS OF THE SECOND CATHERINE
-- WHO LIT HER OWN FIRE AND MADE HER OWN COFFEE -- AND WAS SWORN
AT BY A CHIMNEY SWEEPER -- OTHER DOMESTIC AMENITIES IN THE CAREER
OF AN EMPRESS -- THE SUIT OF GUSTAVUS IV. -- CATHERINE'S DEATH --
HUMILIATING FUNERAL INCIDENTS.

I experienced a great joy when, after breathing frosty air outdoors
and air heated by stoves indoors for several months, I witnessed the
arrival of summer. I took a great delight in the walks, and hastened
to enjoy the beautiful surroundings of St. Petersburg. I very often
went to the Lake of Pergola alone with my Russian man-servant to take
what I called an air-bath. I enjoyed the contemplation of its limpid
water, which vividly reflected the trees on its b